#COOLANT LIGHT DRIVERS#
Some drivers may feel that simply topping off coolant when it gets low is good enough to keep things working, but that's not always the case. But that doesn't mean a coolant flush is entirely unnecessary. For instance, you will likely need to do an oil change more often than you will need to do a coolant flush. It definitely doesn't need to be conducted as often as some other types of similar maintenance in your vehicle, however. So how exactly do you know that there's something wrong with your coolant and that you may need a flush in the first place? Let's take a look and see what can go wrong, and what you can do to fix it.Ī coolant flush is some routine maintenance that can help your coolant system keep working smoothly and efficiently. And that's why a coolant flush is necessary if you have a problem with the coolant in your vehicle. It isn't that difficult to do other than you can't see much because it is on the rear coolant pipe behind the engine.As you can see, without coolant working properly in your engine you're risking some potentially serious damage. If you are really worried about then you can replace your coolant temperature sensor, the o-ring, and the plastic C-clip. You live up north where it is going to be colder outside ambient temperature wise than people like me farther south. When it is colder out it takes longer for the engine to reach operating temperature, especially if you do a lot of stop and go rush hour traffic.
#COOLANT LIGHT CRACK#
Also check if there are cracks along the bottom of the coolant tank because as the plastic ages it discolors into a yellowish clear and it starts to crack along the bottom from the engine heat.Īs far as the engine heating up goes.
If it is plugged in and spraying the pins with cleaner doesn't help then you probably need a new coolant tank. Check that the warning goes away before you put the coolant tank back in and screw it down. If it is plugged in then spray the pins with some electrical contact cleaner and plug it back in. Take the one screw out for the coolant tank, then lift the coolant tank out of the tab retainers, and check that it is plugged in. There is a low level sensor in the bottom of the coolant tank.
The CEL went away after a couple days so i wasn't able to read it, and i do not have a Ross-tech to read what has been stored.Īny help is greatly appreciated, thank you! This, and a random CEL from last week, have me wondering. I was wondering why it would take this long. Lately, i've seen it only get to the 1/4 mark after about 10 minutes and may not get up near the 1/2 mark until i'm almost home from my 30 minute commute. Typically the car gets to the middle on the engine temp gauge in about 10 minutes. Is there some sort of low-level sensor i can look for and possibly replace? What would cause this error other than actually having low coolant? There shouldn't be a leak anywhere as i have plenty of coolant.Īs for things that may have changed recently - i have noticed that on some days it takes quite a while for my engine to get warm. Needless to say, i'm a little scared to drive it in the event there's some sort of major failure (car runs great still, from what i can tell). So after i added the coolant, slightly above the "max" line, i started it up again and got the same warning light. Before adding it, i realized i was right in the middle, so i was unsure why it was beeping at me but i added more anyway.
The next morning i started the car and of course the light was still on, beeping at me, so i added coolant to the tank. Drove 5 more minutes to my house and shut the car off. Car temperature was right in the middle where it usually is, and I've never seen it get above this point. This popped on the other day while driving for maybe 10 minutes. I'm wondering if anyone can troubleshoot an issue with my coolant light.
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